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Post by Law Dog on Nov 17, 2017 19:07:31 GMT -5
I extended the length on my fangs cables this year mostly a feel good plan if I hook a badger but still I added a few inches of cable since my driver was extra long. Well I ended up getting a standard driver and ended up using that so the top of the driver was almost level with the ground when it was fully driven into the ground.
It turned out to be a blessing as I can slip the digger piece of the hammer head under the top nut/washer comb and after a few side taps I can just pry it out a lot easier the hitting it upward when it gets stuck.
Just a FYI give a few a longer cables a try and see what you think the ground here is hard so it helped here a lot saving time and energy.
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Post by arkansastrapper on Nov 18, 2017 21:53:19 GMT -5
One thing I do to my wolf fangs and cables is load the whole cable like a snare I mean over load so the cable coils up makes it a whole lot differents not having to fight with cable end sticking up when bedding your trap
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Post by Law Dog on Nov 18, 2017 23:17:54 GMT -5
I drive mine in so the swivel is in the ground I don't pull up I just remove the driver the yote or badger can do that! LOL Had a nice badger today he dug a spot around the cable so the center of the cable was exposed.
I thought I could just jerk it out after dispatch. The top ground with the trap tore out sideways but the fang held tight, after a few tries I just clipped the cable and was on my way. Not sure how much dirt was above the fang but it was not letting go it could not of been but a few inches of dirt holding it.
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Post by arkansastrapper on Nov 19, 2017 10:38:28 GMT -5
They hold awesome wolf fangs has whooped two stake pullers I bought so now I cut cable and walk away
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Ohio
Administrator
Posts: 2,397
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Post by Ohio on Nov 20, 2017 10:27:44 GMT -5
One thing I do to my wolf fangs and cables is load the whole cable like a snare I mean over load so the cable coils up makes it a whole lot differents not having to fight with cable end sticking up when bedding your trap That's a great idea!
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Post by arkansastrapper on Nov 20, 2017 15:20:03 GMT -5
Thank you sir
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Post by Law Dog on Nov 23, 2017 0:03:43 GMT -5
Loving the longer cable it makes it a lot easier to pull the driver from the ones I put in this week with it being level with the ground (top of driver) had a few sticky ones but over all a lot less hammer swinging.
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Post by LT GREY on Jan 14, 2018 14:40:32 GMT -5
I have used cable stakes for many years, starting out in 1981 with a set-up I had gotten from Keith Gregerson of Roundup, Montana. His involved a solid rod, which was first driven in the ground at the desired depth, once removed a pipe the same diameter with a length of cable was inserted, which had a swivel on one end and a toggle head on the other. The toggle head end is inserted into the pipe and shoved into the ground. Once you reached the depth the solid rod had been driven to, the pipe was removed and a pull straight upward, set the 'head'. Your trap or snare was then attached to the swiveled end and you then made your set accordingly. Mind you, this was in 1981, (a life time ago for some of you) but it showed how far Keith Gregerson was ahead of most of the trapping industry. At that time, I like many land trappers used re-bar steel stakes, which had to be pulled and even 'jacked' out of the ground. When you carried a lot of them it added quite a bit of weight to your load, pick up or otherwise. Still that was how most did it unless a drag was used.
Fast Forward to modern day and I seldom ever use a steel stakes. I still own a bunch, but cable stakes are to easy to use and carry. I also have some 'chain stakes' I use as well.
The stake head I prefer and use are the Wolf Fang heads and having used the larger ones they now make and sell, I prefer those in certain soil types. For cable, I use 7 X 7 - 1/8th inch American (dry) cable in 24 inch lengths, which end up making an 18 inch stake, I use double ferrules on both ends and then add a MB crunch proof (double)swivel on the loop end.
I use these on both snares and traps and haven't ever had a problem using them. I use a Bulldog puller to remove them, often in the spring when the ground warms up.
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Post by longbarrel on Jan 15, 2018 11:55:02 GMT -5
I have mixed feeling about cable stakes. I am sure it is the ground conditions here that force me back to stakes. The driver for the wolf fang weighs as much as 4 or 5 stakes and in winter conditions I very seldom get the cable stake halfway in the ground. Spring is different,, soft ground and rain I think the cable stake would shine. Still I can double stake in these conditions. I have a short welders bar to pull stakes with and it pops them right out of the ground frozen or not. I see the advantage of weight and space taken up in your pickup using cable stakes and I realize my situation is a bit different, where I am not running a line and am just spot setting 2 or 3 different areas to nail a sheep killer. Anyway I still use both but lean heavy towards the rebar and smooth stake.
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Post by timdandy on May 6, 2018 8:51:26 GMT -5
I got some wolffangs i made with 8th in. Cable and waxt them. They been in the ground for 4 years now at some of my culvert spots. Saves me lots of time
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Post by dtraper on May 6, 2018 20:40:34 GMT -5
Got to get in on this one- been runnin wolf fangs for a few years now , some I have just reattached the trap to, but most of the time just cut them off, ain't no way your going to pull a fang out of this red clay/rock ground here in the great state of TN. been lucky at time to get one down 8ins. and that puppy will hold the baddest yote - just sayin -D-
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