I agree, that when you take the nose and lips off, the pelt seems to look a lot more uniform. I also usually end up cutting some of the square part of the tail area off to make it more uniform. Great post MNCedar!!
I've pretty much gotten away from beaver trapping the last few years, coon and mink are easier to carry and just as lucrative, but I prefer boards, too. My nephew has all my boards, but I just might have to requisition a couple of them next year and trap a few.
Post by thefurtrapper on May 24, 2011 0:03:54 GMT -5
Good picture's! The only way I have ever been shown to use staples is if one side of the staple is off the pelt. I like nails though because you can take a screw driver and lift the pelt up a little bit on the nail's. It dries better I find.
Sorry fella not here! I would think if a person were to run one with a regulator that was turned down and only shoot the staple in part way it would be very efficient. I woud stick with as long of a staple as you could get away with. Let me know how this works out for you!!
I like to sew my beaver leg holes close, that way I can lift the pelt of the board to the head of the nails giving the pelt space for the air to circulate. You do a great job with the staples.
Justme2 - If you nail your legholes shut, you can also lift the pelt up. It would save you some time since you wouldn't have to sew them shut. A long screwdriver really helps in lifting the pelt up when you nail the leg holes shut. This past spring my beaver were on the boards for 3 days, then i took them off the boards. I always have a lot of fans going and as soon as the leather side sounds scratchy it is time to remove. Pay special attention to the face area as that is where it dries last!