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Post by wardog on Jan 18, 2012 18:49:39 GMT -5
I didn’t want to hijack the trap placement thread that is currently being discussed, so I’m starting another one, this one is in regard to trap placement on scent posts/ marking spots. This is by far my least successful set, and I always make these sets near any hole set that I make. I’m hoping this generates lots of discussion and advice. My season is all but over for the year; I am out of town for the next week or so for work so I pulled everything this past weekend. Anyway, I don’t have any pictures of my sets but will do my best to try to describe what I do. After completing a dirt hole and usually a flat set within close proximity to each other I look around for something that stands out. If nothing stands out I transplant something, rock/ small tree branch, weed clump. If there’s a lot of competition for scent post eye appeal I go as far as breaking off everything I can close by as far as high weeds and what not to insure the object I am setting screams pee on me. Now for discussion purposes, let’s assume I transplanted a burnt tree branch or some other vertical object. My set would be as follows. Set the post into the ground very securely, with the top of stick angling away from the trap, slight angle. I bed the trap roughly 9 inches from the base of the stick on the pre dominate downwind side of the stick, blend the trap so there is no sign of ground disturbance. I then place any number of attractants on the post from urine to any number of commercial “scent post” lures. I begin to dribble the lure on top of the post and let it run down the trap side. I usually also include some kind of gland lure on the bottom of the post along with a shot of fox urine, thinking that the added attractant on the bottom of the post on the trap side would coax the animal to move to that side to at least be better positioned investigate things. Another example of one of my nonproductive scent posts would be a clump of grass or weed that is all alone and has good eye appeal. I set/ blend the trap on the downwind side of the clump or weed setting roughly 9 inches away. Here I usually place a coyote turd (we’ve all seen this occur naturally) and give the turd a shot of fox urine. I’ve tried rocks too…. I can’t help but speculate that my catch numbers would be better if I could ever get this set down, especially for those crap and go coyotes (why do they do that? ??) ?/ That alone is one of the most insulting things when I have 3 – 5 traps scattered around a 20 – 40 foot area and they come along and get away with the crap and run. I’ve asked on Tman before what this behavior is all about, but really didn’t get a good answer. So my questions would be 1. What is the proper trap placement - guesstamate distance on flat terrain a. If the set is not on flat ground, will they approach the scent post from the uphill side and mark it from that side, if so how far away is the trap. 2. Does the trap go on the downwind side of the scent post 3. What lures do you prefer, urine/ gland/ commercial scent post lure 4. Where do you place the attractor/ lure on the scent post. 5. Do you have good success with this set 6. Do you use more than 1 trap at these sets 7. Do you guide and if so, how do you guide them for scent posts. This set is my nemesis and if I can tune it up to be productive, me thinks the coyotes are in a lot of trouble. That’s not so say I am only trapping coyotes, but if they’re around, I want them waiting for me in the morning. When I get back from my out of town trip I have a small farm I’m going to set and with the weather being what it’s been I doubt I’ll set too many hole sets, planning to set mainly flat sets and scent posts…… I’d like to see if I can pick up some info on how to tweak this set to make it more productive for me. Suggestions, thought, advice anything is appreciated
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Post by dat41 on Jan 18, 2012 19:50:21 GMT -5
A very informative post. I have had similiar experiences with " post " sets, and I really can't gain the same confidence I have with a dirthole. Here is one thought that came to mind. Your other post said your old dog accompanies you on the line. Does he also mark your post sets? Would you believe this would help or not , just a thought.
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Post by minifoxer on Jan 18, 2012 20:05:45 GMT -5
Very well thought out topic and questions wardog! I am really hoping this thread "takes off!"
I will add my pretty limeted experience with this set. (Note: this is my method of using the post sets for fox...not so much yotie dogs.)
1- the trap placement really depends! It depends on, the terain, the angle of the post, wind direction. I have asked alot of people about this aspect as well. I got alot of different answers. It took me awhile to figure out what I think the trappers where telling me what to do. It boils down to this : I go with what my instincts and gut feeling of where I think the animal will work the set. I start by getting down to animal level, and factor in all the little details of the situation and why it would effect the way the animal works the set. I then set where i think I will be taking advantage of the animal. as a general rule though, I stay about 5" back from the POINT of attractor with my trap for fox. Somtimes I offset somtimes not. It depends on what I think the animal will do in the situation!
2- yes, the trap I place is always downwind of the post, or backing. The K9's will always approach a set from the down wind side (I have found). The trap is always on the down wind side on my post sets.
3- I like gland lures and/or urines on my post sets. Flat sets can get food lure. Although I somtomes smear a smidget of food lure under the post with good results in the early season. I use my own homemade gland lure, carmens gland lures, and Bill morgans urines with best results in my area!
4- I place the urine on the bottom, and gland on the top. If in early season, and I feel I want to use food lure...it goes on the bottom with the urine, right at the ground.
5- I have excelent success with this set. especially when it starts getting into late season when the breeding is coming on. This set and its variations also takes alot of my trap shy foxes I come across. Its a very usefull set in my area and high competition areas, I have found. It seems to produce as good, if not better then my DH's I run. I love this set.
6- I somtimes use 2 sets at not only this set, but my DH's and flat sets too. Usually when I add another trap, its to catch a trap shy critter.
7- I guide my post sets so it creates sort of a walk through set. Although I have been doing some experienting with the so called "cheek guiding" with decent success.
Thats the best I can tell you. Get out, and experiment, note the results and how the animal reacted, and adapt to the certain situations!
Good Luck, and I hope I was some help.
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Post by walkercoonhunter on Jan 18, 2012 20:12:02 GMT -5
for me when i make a sent post set i always try and something that has a back stop to it...something like a raod burm with tall grass on the edges so that animal cant come in from behind or make it more work to come in from behind...
if i would be placing my branch or object into the ground facing away from the trap i would put all my "scents" at the base of that object on the trap side...i always use a piece of charred 2x2 with a 1/2 hole drilled into it stuffed with sheeps wool for a scent holder and i will always place this 2x2 leaning towards the trap with the hole on the under side to protect it from the rain and weather...also doing this i think that the K9 is zoned in on 1 spot instead of the whole object when you just squirt the top and let the scent run down to ground level..and that K9 will try and hit that exact spot when they mark it...now as far as trap placement i dont really have any particular spot or measurment for he trap..it could be 4 inches from the base straight in front of the object or it could be 7-8 inches from the object but off set....the reason why i dont care where i set that trap is i use subtle guiding to make that fox/yote step where i want him to step...a small stick or small clods of soil works wonders without spooking anything...i will also use something bigger like a bigger rock or clod of low cut grass weed stems etc to funnel that animal down and make that said animal approach that set at a side approach instead of a straight on approach....i use scent posts and trust them but i dont use them near enough as i should....but it seems as i dont have too much trouble catching critters in them when i do set them....i hope i helped your questions and if i set some steel this week i will set one up and get some pics for you to show you how i do it....
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Post by wardog on Jan 18, 2012 20:15:19 GMT -5
My old dog doesn;t go with me to much, he's old and I'm afraid he's gonna get torn up. When he does go along though, he marks everything. In the first 100 yars out of the truck he'd have me setting 25 traps to cover everywhere he marked. Then he usually lets a big steamer within the next 100 yards. I have watched him though when he marks things, trying to pay close attention to his foot placement. Anymore, he almost needs to lean against something to help support him while he lifts his leg. The pup, he's just young and uneducated in the outdoors and full of energy. Runs all over and can hardly take time to pee, running like an idiot and chasing everything that walks, talks or crawls.
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Post by wardog on Jan 18, 2012 20:32:52 GMT -5
Mini, thanks.....also, what are you calling cheek guiding?
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Post by wardog on Jan 18, 2012 20:54:26 GMT -5
Walker, thank you! I have played around with the leaning of the post, both toward and away from the trap...but have not gone the drilling the hole for the lure holder. I alos like your reasoning for leaning toward the trap. What height are the 2x2s that you use?
One more thing, do you spike the urine this time of year. I have some asafotedia and valerian tincture I use for lure dabbling and was going to put a few drops of the tinctures in different bottles of urine to see what kind of response I could entice, but with the lack of snow and my non productive setting of scent posts I have no way of gauging the success of the spiked urine. I was alos going to try a drop of skunk essence in the urine/ s. In your opinion, is this worth trying?
As for the guiding, I'm always fearful of over guiding. Alot of times when I'm done, I second guess myself on this part of the equation. I run I guess what could be called an open set (dirt holes and flat sets) most of my guiding is done with a poke hole into the ground (screwdriver) and subtle small sticks or other natural vegetation pressed into the poke holes very subtly suggesting that the animal step on the pan. I always think about getting more aggressive with the guiding but with both foxes and coyotes in my area and I want them all, I never follow through with the aggressive guiding.
I look forward to any pictures or any other advice you can offer.
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Post by minifoxer on Jan 18, 2012 21:21:19 GMT -5
I am bookmarking this thread for sure.
walker: When you stated that you somtimes used a larger clump of dirt or rock to help funnel the animal down, where do you usually place this larger guding?
Would i be correct if I assumed that you used it further away from the set? Or if I assumed that the goal of the bigger guiding is to get them coming into the set on the right angle, and once he's at your trap, the subtle guidings take over and 0 him in on the "sweet spot" ?? If I'm correct in my assumptions, what dictates the placment of the larger guiding? The same things that dictate trap placement and the small subtle guidings?
I find it would be awfull hard to dictate the animal approach to the set and make him approach your set from the right angle from a distance? Also, if I'm correct, how far is this bigger guiding usually placed??
Or perhaps, I'm just wrong in my assumptions. In wich case its just a waste of typing on my part?
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Post by walkercoonhunter on Jan 18, 2012 21:46:50 GMT -5
wardog i use no urine spike this time of year or any time of year...just great urine....i only use gland or matrix lures and urine on my scent post sets...sometimes all 3... and my 2x2 is only about 6-8 inches above the ground...i cut the 12 inches and drive them into the ground so no need to anchor it in any way....
mini great questions....my larger clod or rock would be placed directly in front of the post about 12-14 (is a guess) inches making it like a walk thru set in sorts,your right on the money for the big guiding getting the animal to go between that and the post then the little guiding taking over...alota guys thing "oh your using guiding and that may spook that animal"...well im here to tell you that if my style of guiding spooks animals they would die of starvation because they would be affraid to walk anywhere....
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Post by minifoxer on Jan 18, 2012 22:57:02 GMT -5
wardog i use no urine spike this time of year or any time of year...just great urine....i only use gland or matrix lures and urine on my scent post sets...sometimes all 3... and my 2x2 is only about 6-8 inches above the ground...i cut the 12 inches and drive them into the ground so no need to anchor it in any way.... mini great questions....my larger clod or rock would be placed directly in front of the post about 12-14 (is a guess) inches making it like a walk thru set in sorts,your right on the money for the big guiding getting the animal to go between that and the post then the little guiding taking over...alota guys thing "oh your using guiding and that may spook that animal"...well im here to tell you that if my style of guiding spooks animals they would die of starvation because they would be affraid to walk anywhere.... Thanks for that answers!! I think from your posts, I can figure out a good idea of what your sets and guiding look like. I myself have experimented with what you where saying about the bigger rock or clump of dirt, with decent results. Thanks alot. More experimenting will be done on my part.
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Post by walkercoonhunter on Jan 18, 2012 23:46:25 GMT -5
i will set one up tomorrow and take step by step pics of how i do it and what condition or scenario its in for you guys....just to show my way of doing them....
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Post by Furtrader on Jan 19, 2012 9:10:00 GMT -5
someone needs to knock on bill's door and get him into this discussion. lol
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Post by lyonch on Jan 19, 2012 9:35:58 GMT -5
I will jump in this topic this afternoon. Dang work has me looking at some things this morning. I only use one of two things when i make a urine post, one of them is wood, and the other is bone. dependent upon the color of the background, i will choose which to use.
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Post by bill1958 on Jan 19, 2012 11:09:45 GMT -5
for grey fox and cats hug the tuff of grass they both hugs close to the backing now for coyote set the trap back apr 7 inches straight back and offset the trap 2 inches from the backing use a good gland or just urine .when you make this set most people don't even no it's there Leaning post settake a 12'' x 2'' wooden stake and drive it in a 75 degree angle (at the 10 oclock on a clock) set the trap close to the stake for cats and grey fox, for coon and coyotes move the trap back 8 inches...now put a good gland lure or cat lure at the top and smear it about two inches .....remember the more it goes to the bottom of the stake the more non target catches you will make...the canines use it for a scent post and the cats use it as a rubbing post. if you look close I use a rubber band and I pull the rubber band out slide q-tip with lure on it under it.by doing this i cut my nontarget catches back 95 % unless it rains .then it's because the lure runs down to the bottom of the stake now this set can be used as a urine post type set or a basic flat set and works very well on hole shy dogs The scratch up set diagramcat postlean the stake toward the 10 o clock position .set the trap just like for the grey fox .hug that stake with the trap.this set has produced a lot of cats for me going on 20 years now.take a rubber band and fasten a q-tip with lure at the top.add the sight attractor this is the finished set.here is one from my old buddy and used to be trapping partner. tony ,son giving a few pointers on a rub post lol. dh's rub postHere is another of my favorite cat sets. Me and little T went out this afternoon and set up a bobcat rub set with flagging. The first picture in the series is the location pic. This location has a faint trail leading along side of this small hickory tree. We decided to set this location with the rub set. The next pic is my son scraping away the bark off the side of the hickory tree to expose the inner white core. This acts as a visual attractor all its own. But when the bark is removed we will make a smear bait from beaver castor and rub it on the exposed white area further adding to the appeal of the set up. The next pic shows the trap and t stake that we used for the set. The trap is a KB 5.5 wich we staked with a Metal T stake. Notice the short chain lenght. And the T stake placement. The trap is placed about 8 to 10 inches from tree. And the trap is set were the cat should come off trail and come between the jaws of trap. Then the trap bed is cut out and a little trench inside of bed will accomadate the spring mechanism under the KB 5.5. The next pic shows the finished set blended in to the surrounding cover. This set up can also be set with the top of pan exposed. Which has worked for me. But i still prefer to camo trap. The next pic shows where we took and put the tape from and old VCR tape around the trunk of the tree above the rub. This also adds to the effectiveness of the set up, as the tape is very flimsy and reflective. This will definately get the attention from the cats. Then everything else puts him/her in the trap. The next pic shows my son at the fineshed set. Now he say iam ready for my first cat. Then i tell him come season we will come back and set it again. He is very excited. I showed him the cat tracks leading down the trail. Once again i hope the young trappers can use this as a guide for there cat sets. And i wish them all the luck on there season
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Post by wardog on Jan 19, 2012 11:57:13 GMT -5
All, this is the type of discussion and info I was hoping to gleen from this thread. Thanks to all that have participated so far, I hope the thread stays active and much more info and advice is offered.
I'm a trapper in training and with no one to ask these questions in person to, all of the info I am receiving is priceless to me. Thanks to everyone that has taken the time to respond on forum and through PM and to all that may participate in the future. I know it takes time and effort to help people out, especially someone that is not a personal aquaintance and all of your efforts are greatly appreciated by me.
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Post by minifoxer on Jan 19, 2012 12:14:23 GMT -5
Bill, thanks for your time in posting!!! I especially found the diagram of the "Scratch up Set" very very interesting!! That is a set I am hoping to experiment on. Seems like one of those Simple but Deadly sets when used in the right situation!! ;D
This thread has been very helpfull to me. A thread fit for the archives if I ever saw one! Thanks guys.
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Post by bill1958 on Jan 19, 2012 13:15:08 GMT -5
trap placement on scent post has the same objection as dirt holes when it comes to trap placement
.each object is different ,could be the slant or lay over of the land,the angle of the post each stake is different. it depends if the animal is in the mood to sniff,pee, or rub.wait a minute they step the same way for each reason QUESS AGAIN. when the animal walks of and sniff it's front foot is aprox 9-12 inches back,when the urinate cut that aprox half,now rubbing here they make several temps, to rub on the post ,then urinate and of course some times the other way around but just the same when the animal rubs it touches the stake and that puts the animals foot right close to the post.
can you make a scent post work with ONE TRAP PLACEMENT FOR EVERY ANIMAL
yes when you lean the stake in a 75 degree angle back words away from the trap ,this forces the animal in a natural way to step closer to the post to sniff,pee and rub and this has helped me to catch my yotes with out missing my cats and greys and use the same trap placement. .
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Post by lyonch on Jan 19, 2012 15:19:04 GMT -5
Great posts by everyone!! There is a ton of information in this thread. Well i guess i will toss in my 3 pennies worth and try to explain how i do it. First and foremost i don't ever recommend putting any lure on an object that is not anchored to the ground is some way shape or form. Unrine and gland will be ok, but some lures cause a grab and run reaction to a k-9 and if they move your post a little ways off you are out of the ballgame in catching any other critter coming by. There are two objects that i use when making a urine post set. To me there are two different types of scent posts, there is the rub post like bill mentioned, or a urine post. Both are great sets and i don't have crap for experience on the rub post set, so i can't comment on it. First if i have a T--bone from the spinal column of a cow on hand i use that first. The main reason is because i can anchor it in the ground easily and it makes great eye appeal. I place all my traps on urine posts and scent posts at 9" straight back. I also point the dog at the post. Now if my backing starts reaching higher than 6" i will start moving the trap further away from the post. the reason being, is the bigger the post or backing used, the farther away a k-9 can urinate from to hit there spot. Since i am using a T-bone here i will drive it into the ground until the knob hits dirt. I will than take a piece of sheeps wool and rub some gland in it. I use pure gland and nothing fancy, spiked or added. After i shove the sheeps wool with gland into the hole of the T-bone i will then apply urine to the top of the bone. I use urine quite liberal. I really like to use these along two tracks since they stand out so well! Below is a pic showing a red fox caught on a T-bone set. The T-bone is placed to the right just out of the picture. A skull will also work at this set as well. Just remember that if you want to add a lure or something to this set, feel free to do so on the T-bone because it is drove into the ground, but not just a skull sitting there. The set below also did not get any backing. I had a really old corn field on the right and for an animal walking down the two track, it is a lot easier to investigate right off of the two track than through the stubby corn field. I also leave this set wide open and rarely do any guiding. If i do guide it is after i see an animal work the set and realized i did something wrong, then will use slight guide to adjust for my shortcomings. Now that i covered the bone part of it lets talk about wood. I prefer to use something that is from the area for wood. This can be a big piece of a small piece of wood, but just something that will catch there eyes. I always place the wood at a steep angle. Most of the time it is just laying on the ground and one of the ends pointing to the trap. Again this is straight back 9" unless i used a peice that got higher than 6" then i start creeping further away like mentioned. Again the dog of the trap is point straight at post. If i can help it I like to see then end i place gland and urine on slightly elevated out of the ground. Now if you can find one two to three feet long or longer, that is the best. This forces them to use and end rather than the middle of try to urinate from a distance. I always make my urine posts with the prevailing wind to my face. Don't use any lure or bait unless you can anchor the post somehow. I place gland on my glove and smear it on the bottom of the wood. I then place the urine on top and apply it very liberaly. I also leave this set wide open and let them feel inviting to the set. In the picture below, you can see a piece of wood around the middle of the pic next to the coyote. That is the piece of wood i used at the set. With both sets, bone and or wood there are some similarities that i could incorporate. First i could alway leave a piece of scat on the very outer edge of the dog of the trap if chose to do so. If i see a set getting worked consitently but not catching anything and they are working the set at a funky angle, well toss in a sleeper trap right where they are working it. I could add backing to either set if i don't feel comfortable leaving it wide open ( i do this quite often on a plain skull set that can't be anchored and its in an open area). In my area dirtholes seem to outproduce urine post set 3 to 1 easily. When the temps change and things are froze like they are now the uring post outproduces the dirt hole 3 to 1 easily. I have not used a grass tuff for a urine post or scent post before. I prefer to stick with bones and sticks for some reason. I hope this helps and i did't ramble on too much. Everyone has had great input on this topic and i hope it continues in the right direction! Happy trapping!
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Post by lyonch on Jan 19, 2012 15:21:45 GMT -5
I did forget to mention that just about every k-9 i catch at a urine post is caught by the front foot. This tells me they are getting caught on the approach before they even get a chance to urinate on it.
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Post by bill1958 on Jan 19, 2012 15:33:31 GMT -5
i agree chris ,your right any time you catch a canine by the front foot you caught him or her coming and not leavng..good post brother
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Post by lyonch on Jan 19, 2012 15:45:30 GMT -5
Now i would like you guys to take into consideration on how a male urinates and marks and how a female does. Obviously well all know that a male will lift it's leg and urinate from a distance. A female will actually back her self up and squats over what she wants to urinate on. I can't prove this 100% but my limited experience with the two is that a female will only investigate a really tall backing and not actually try to urinate on it because she cant get high enough to mark exactly where the urine is.
Here is a pic that says place trap here, and do you think they have used this a time or two LOL. I know it's hard to see, but there was two different coyotes that visited this right after a snow fall. this is in a park, so no trapping allowed, but this post i think would have produced one LOL.
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Post by bill1958 on Jan 19, 2012 16:21:46 GMT -5
chris thats why i feel the urine should be down low and not on top.if it's up top i have seen were the female just sniffed and be gone and lost interest real quick.now if it's down low i get every yote that comes threw if they work that set. now i don't trap yotes for fur as i can't give one away not even for a dime and the only ones i trap is for adc and that means they all must goe, for to me to place the urine fron the top would cost me some were down the line..
now you made another point on staking objects down and thats true but a lot also depends on the lure and the object.
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Post by lyonch on Jan 19, 2012 16:30:46 GMT -5
Good point bill! My comment about staking down the backing if you use any lure besides the urine, is to cover all aspects. If you know that lure won't cause a bite and run reaction, then by all means use it, but when i am buying a commercial lure for the first time, that i haven't used before, I always stake it.
Bill do you know what specific ingrediant(s) causes this reaction? I don't care for that reaction myself and would like to stay away from it if i can.
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Post by bill1958 on Jan 19, 2012 17:03:36 GMT -5
chris while i don't know them all but i do know some. valerian extract which is used in lures and baits,asafoetida,mink musk,rat musk,sac oil,castor,rabbit urine and weasel musk,any of these could give you that action but the one key is the type of base thats used in the lure.
take a meat base with any of these ingredents in deed you would get the grab and goe ,now if you say used castor as you base and added the same ingredents,you would get more of a rubbing affect then a grab and goe.now lets talk about rubbing if you take this lure and put on groung level you would get tripped traps due to rolling.now keep in mind put that same lure in a hole ,the reaction would be different as then the animal will dig,urinate and then roll.
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Post by bill1958 on Jan 19, 2012 20:31:31 GMT -5
any loud lure can cause rolling and rubbing. now on coursity type lures it's a hit and miss depends on the mood of the canines,i have had then sniff and urinate but i have had then grab and move as well with coursity lures.now a lot of grey fox lures and coon lures is fish oil based and under the right conditions and sets ,they to will grab and run . my point is any thing that relates to food then you have a chance of the canines to grab it and carry it a few feet,but if you look were they drop it,in some cases you will see were they rolled on it
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Post by MT on Jan 19, 2012 20:36:54 GMT -5
Wow good info bill! Thanks!
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Post by wardog on Jan 20, 2012 19:30:12 GMT -5
As it turns out, I'm back in the game as of Sunday, schedules got shifted around ;D ;D ;D Lots of good info here and I'm going to see if I can put some of it to good use. Like I said, I want to get this set down so when I drop in a scent post I can have confidence that it will produce. There has been advice given on 3 types that I am going to set, post leaning forward, post leaning backward and Lyonch's version (what I read as kind of a projection set).... We have some snow headed at us tonight/ tomorrow morning so hopefully by the time I roll in an Sunday I have some critter tracks to work from. I'm going to try to remeber to take some pictures and get them posted..
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Post by MNCedar on Jan 20, 2012 21:21:58 GMT -5
Where was this post when I needed it! ;D
Switched to post sets (which were new to me) a month ago and had more misses than I've ever had. Which lead me to over guiding and running sets that looked like a kindergartener made them.
Got more and more frustrated every day. Took a couple ride alongs to snap out of it! And I will say that Lyonch makes a nice looking post set!
So in keeping with the tradition of being negative ;D I would just say that post sets when done correctly are KILLER.....when done poorly, can KILL your line. At least to me, you need to know what you're doing before you can be confident in them.
Just my .02 cents.
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Post by wardog on Jan 23, 2012 20:29:27 GMT -5
I made it out to get some sets in yesterday, was kind of strapped for time so pics are limited. This was the first time setting this farm, so cold rolling at its best. I walked the property and we had snow that was about 36 hours old, not tracks of any kind to set on. There is a dump site located on this property that is used year round to dump butchering scraps so I’m pretty sure that there’s critters using it. Anyway with no tracks to go off of I fell back to the typical set locations, 2 tracks leading to the dump site and fence row cross overs. Anyway, the pics are of a set I made on the eastern side of the property feet off of a 2 track crossover. The first picture is the stake pounded in using Bills’ leaning post away from the trap. The pan is roughly 5 – 6 inches away from the bottom of the post. However there is red fox gland on the lure holder and a liberal shot of fox urine (imo great urine as walker pointed out earlier, Jameson meat fed winter collected). The dimension of the post is 12 inches by roughly 2 ½ inches Yes we have snow however we had rain and warm weather in the forecast, so I kicked out a fairly large area counting on rapid melt off and choosing to have an ugly set for a day or 2 and removing the snow that could cause me freezing grief when the rain and melting occurred (which is occurring) right now. The 2nd pic shows the set duffed blended in to match the surrounding area when there is no snow. Note the stick placed in front of the set to create a walk through guide. I also placed sort of vertical guides, one can be seen on the right side of the post trying to limit the approach avenues, this type of guiding is used on the other side of the set as well but is not obvious in the pictures This is what they see when traversing the crossover through the fence row from the east to west going toward the dump site. A similar set was constructed on the opposite side of this field where 2 2tracks converge and head toward the dump. The difference being the angle of the post, I leaned that one toward the trap and placed coyote gland lure in the lure hole. I ran out of daylight and didn’t get any pics of that set. When drove through this morning there was no catches, but a fox walked within a few feet of the one no pictured. That set is as ugly as the one that is pictured, same snow kick out, so who knows. The fox walked through the kicked out are but didn’t commit to the post close enough to be caught, something got his attention, just hard to tell if it was the post itself or the overall disturbance. Feel free to evaluate and all comments are welcome,
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Post by capnjack on Jan 23, 2012 20:53:51 GMT -5
Looks interesting
Is the grass shown part of natural growth there or did you implant it? How deep of trap bed or any did you make?
Good luck - Hope your next pics show a K-9 with missing chewed up post
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